The alerts provided by a TPMS adds safety and savings by increasing fuel efficiency, extending tire life, decreasing down time and maintenance, and improving stability and handling. Motorcyclists have long been told to check their tire pressure each time they ride, and any time weather or atmospheric conditions change. Under inflated tires can lead to tread separation and tire failure and result in serious accidents. Properly inflated tires can add stability and handling and braking efficiencies, providing a safety net for the rider.

There are two types of TPMS systems for motorcycles: external sensors and internal sensors. The external systems, like the TireGard Motorcycle TPMS, have tire pressure sensors that are installed on the valve stems of each tire, and the pressure information is fed wirelessly to a small display unit. They are easy to install and do not require the cost of professional installation. The internal systems have sensors that are installed inside of the tires, and also feed the tire pressure information wirelessly to a small display unit. However, external systems do require professional installation, which can be costly.

The display unit part of a TPMS allows the rider to see the pressure and/or temperature in real time, and take appropriate action if a warning is displayed. The alarms can be factory set, or set by the operator for different front and rear tire settings.

Under or over-inflated tires can be a real danger to any motorcyclist. Motorcycle Tire Pressure Monitoring Systems (TPMS) are a great way to help prevent an accident caused by improper tire pressure.

Leather is a good material to help break the wind and assist you in keeping warm during the winter riding season. A good motorcycle jacket is one item you are likely to spend a lot of money on, but it will be worth it when you need it. There are several models; leather or synthetics, with or without padding. Technological advances have brought affordable materials to the marketplace. When purchasing a motorcycle jacket, consider stitching, padding, weight, and durability along with fashion. A zip out liner and vented underarms as well as straps and buckles or snaps at the wrists and waist are expected features in a quality jacket.

A good jacket is only a small part of staying warm. Before putting on the jacket, you should have layered your clothing. Start with light weight, thin under garments. Add a layer of thermal underwear, shirt and pants, that have synthetic fibers to wick away moisture. They are available in most department stores and on our web site, and come in various thicknesses. Choose the thickness tolerance for the weather conditions you anticipate encountering.

The next layer should be a middle, wind breaking layer to keep the insulated underwear working properly. For an outer layer on bottom, you might add thermal lined jeans available at most sporting goods stores and on line, and/or a pair of leather chaps and your motorcycle jacket. Additionally, if conditions are severe, you can add your rain gear over your motorcycle jacket to further break the wind and shield you from the cold.

Finally, pay attention to your feet and hands, as these are often the first to feel the effects of the cold. For your hands, a thin silk or micro fiber liner under your leather gloves are a good option, or you might consider heated gloves with a rheostat to control the temperature. Long, gauntlet style gloves that cover your wrist and jacket sleeves can help break the wind as well as keep your hands protected. They should have a fastener at the wrist to secure them over your sleeve, keeping cold air and wind out.

Wear motorcycle boots that are not too tight and provide room to wear a heavy pair of socks. Boot height is important in cold weather, and they should be well above your ankles to provide a barrier from the cold and wind. Some riders insert disposable hand and feet warmers in their gloves and boots to further increase their warmth.

Lastly, wear a neck gator or scarf around your neck. A full face helmet with a face shield is the best for warmth, and a hat underneath the helmet can help keep your warm. For those of you who are uncomfortable in full face helmets, face shields are available in various materials to aid in keeping your face shielded from the wind and cold. A windshield will also assist you in your endeavor to stay warm and attentive while riding in cold, frosty temperatures.

Paying attention to proper dress and attire for cold weather riding can enhance your experience and aid in keeping you attentive and safe on the ride.

• First, make sure you have adequate space to complete the task.  A covered carport is better than outside in the elements, and a garage is better than a covered carport.
• You’ll need a motorcycle stand and a standard automotive manual tire changer.
• Gather your hand tools:  two tire irons, a spray bottle with soapy dish water, a brush, duct tape, a valve tool, rubber mallet, wrenches and/or sockets to fit your motorcycle, an air compressor, and and air pressure gauge.
• Don your safety glasses.
• Raise your motorcycle by supporting it on the stand with the wheels raised off the ground.  Be certain to follow manufacturer’s instructions for the particular stand you are using.
• Once the bike is secured, you are ready to change the rear tire.  You should make note of the arrangement of parts on the bikes; the bushings, washers, alignment collars and nuts on the rear axle and swing arm.  I like to use a digital camera for this step, so I can refer to the photos on my computer when I’m ready to replace the tire.
• Remove the retaining pin from the axle nut and remove the nut.  Note:  Some motorcycles don’t have retaining pins, so don’t worry.   This should be a simple task, and should not take a lot of muscle to remove.
• Use the rubber mallet against the threaded side of the axle when you remove it.  Be gentle when tapping it and be prepared for the rear brake caliper to come off as you tap out the axle.  Take a picture of, or note the position of the washers and bushings during this process.  This is when a helper can come in handy; so if you have a buddy, promise him some beer and BB-Q or return the favor later. Clean the axle and give it a light coat of waterproof grease.
• A magnetic pan can be the perfect tool for keeping all your small parts together.
• Next, remove the rear wheel from the swing arm.  If the bike is equipped with a rubber “cush drive” the sprocket will separate from the hub easily.  Place the cush drive bushings aside after notating their positioning in the slots.  Place the sprocket aside, and prepare to remove the tire.
• Remove the valve cap and valve stem from the rim.  Use the pointed part of the valve tool to remove the air from the tire, and use the slotted end to unscrew the valve stem.   It’s time to get your camera or note pad out again.  Annotate the direction of tire rotation with regard to the rim. You can use the tape to mark it on the rim.
• Next, you will break the tire’s bead.  Some stands have an attached bead breakers, but a press or lever can also be used for this purpose.  Be certain not to allow the brake rotor to touch anything.  This could cause warping, and will cost you more than you saved by changing your own tires.
• Once you have initially popped the bead, rotate the tire and do it again to free the entire upper bead.  Flip the tire over and do the same thing on the other side.
• Next, you will mount the rim on the stand.  Tighten the provided clamps to hold the rim firmly in place.
• Use a short motorcycle tire iron (never use a long automotive tire iron).  Many motorcycle shops sell rubber coated tire irons or rim protectors, which I highly encourage the use of.  Do not bend the brake rotors by pressing against them.  Curved tire irons can help you avoid a catastrophic error.  Use soapy water and the tire iron to get the tire off the rim.  This can be tricky, but you can do it.  Make sure the tire bead isn’t touching the rim seat or the edge of the rim.  First force the sides of the tire to the center of the rim in the area opposite from where you are going to begin with the tire irons.
• Once you’ve got the iron inserted between tire and rim lift up and over the outside of the rim. Hold this iron in place while you insert the second iron about three inches down the tire and use the lever to lift up.  Repeat this process until you get the tire completely off.
• Once the first side is completed, it should take very little effort to get the opposite side off and completely remove the tire.
• Now that the tire is off, you’re half way done. Inspect the rim and clean it thoroughly before mounting the new tire.
• To replace the new tire, reverse the process, taking care to observe the direction of the rotation arrow on the tire to place it in the proper orientation.
• Once the lower bead is over the top edge of the rim, line up the harmonic balancing mark with the valve stem.  Find the lightest part of the tire identified by a paint mark on the sidewall.  The valve stem is the heaviest part of the rim, so the idea is to line up the lightest part of the tire with the heaviest part of the rim and achieve a rough balance.
• Again, you’ll use the tire arms and a small amount of soapy water to reset the upper bead, being careful not to touch your brake rotors with the iron.
• With the tire on the rim, you can seat the beads.  This is where the air compressor will come in handy.  Set the regulator for a maximum of 50 psi to avoid high pressure accidents.  Inflate the tire until you hear a loud pop as the beads seat.  Listen for air leaks around the edge of the rim before you remove the pneumatic fitting from the valve.  If you don’t hear any leaks, disconnect the fitting from the valve and deflate the tire.  Once all the air is removed screw the valve stem in and inflate the tire to the manufacturer’s recommended pressure.
• The only difference in changing the front tire is the level of complexity.  Loosen the pinch bolts binding the front axle to the fork legs.  If necessary, remove both front brake calipers to get rim clearance that will allow you to remove the wheel.  Once this is accomplished, the process of changing the front tire is exactly the same as changing the rear.
• Your final task is balancing.
• You’ll need a stand that will accept a metal dowel over which you can slide the axle for your wheels and a pair of pliers to trim the wheel weights.  Make sure everything is level and the wheels can turn freely on the stand.  You’ll next determine where the wheel is the heaviest.  To do this, rotate it freely and the stand and check to see if the same spot settles at the bottom.  If so, you will need to add wheel weights to the opposite side of the rim until the wheel is balanced.
• Now that the wheels are balanced, you can replace them on the bike.  I like to check the brakes and replace them as needed when I change my tires.  It’s also a good time to check belts or chains and sprockets for needed replacement.
• Be certain to tighten all bots, line up your rear wheel with the indicator marks near the axle and set the drive chain tension using your owner’s manual.
• Congratulations, you have successfully changed your tires!

To improve your maneuverability in limited spaces, try practicing doing u-turns in a parking lot. Attempt to use only 2 marked spots and complete the maneuver at 5 mph or less. Unless you truly are an excellent rider, with more than 20 years of experience, and can’t be taught anything new, you will find it difficult, and most of you might need up to 4 marked spots to complete the maneuver. Continue to practice until you can do it in the 2 marked spots. You’ll find that the limited space requires attentiveness, and a balanced use of your clutch friction zone in combination with the brakes while turning at slow speeds. Look where you want to go; over your shoulder in tight turns like the u-turn; don’t look down or you will be likely to go down. Use the counterweight technique to help balance at low speeds while turning. This method consists of putting increased pressure on the outermost footrest or peg while leaning the upper body opposite of the turn. You can also slide your body off the center of the seat, providing a balance to the motorcycle. As you practice you’ll find that you’ll be able to complete the maneuver goal of 2 marked spots, under 5 mph in gradual increments. Next practice figure eights and slow crawling as in parades. Figure eights will give you the confidence you need in tight places; it will allow you to maneuver your motorcycle in crammed parking lots and through obstacles you are presented with. You can practice slow crawling and balance when you come up to traffic packed stop lights. As you slow down with the traffic approaching the red light, try to keep your bike balanced without putting your feet down before the light changes to green and traffic moves on. This can be done with the right combination of the brakes, clutch and throttle.

Whether you’re a new rider or you’ve been riding a while, practicing your techniques can give you the skills you need or hone the skills you already have, and leave you prepared for any contingency involving limited spaces.

Once you’ve determined what you’ll use the motorcycle for and how you’ll pay for it, you should acknowledge any physical limitations you might have. If your knees are bad, you might not be able to handle the tucked knee positioning required on a sports bike. Or, you might not even be able to handle the weight of a cruiser. This limitation might require you to consider a trike instead of a two wheeled motorcycle. However, if the limitation is not extreme, a motorcycle with floorboards and a frame and seating combination that sits low to the ground might suffice. In any case, it’s important to determine your physical limitations prior to committing to the new ride.

When you go to look at a potential motorcycle, you should know that there are some things you may be able to change about the bike. Not all bikes have to be accepted as are; in fact there are many modifications and accessory changes that can contribute to a ride that is comfortable and safe for you, the rider.

• If the switches are not within fingertip reach, they can often be easily adjusted to roll them towards you.
• Handlebars can be adjusted to move them closer or further away. If they are still not comfortable, you can exchange the handlebars for a different type. For instance, if you feel like you’re leaned over in an uncomfortable position to reach the flat handlebars, you might ask to replace them with mini ape hangers which will lift your arms up and in line with your body, in what might be a more comfortable position for you.
• Like your hand switches, foot peg positions can usually be easily adjusted to put them within comfortable reach. It’s important to be able to reach the rear brake without strain, so an adjustment may be needed or the bike may not be right for you.
• The seat is one of the easiest things to adjust. If you can’t reach the ground with both feet flat, you’re likely sitting to high. Seat foam can be cut out, or the frame can be lowered.
• It’s never a good idea to compromise safety when riding. If you can’t comfortable reach both the front and rear brakes and can’t place both feet firmly on the ground, even with adjustments, you should consider a different motorcycle.
• Aftermarket parts are available to adjust the seat, switches, handlebar position and even pegs and floorboards, but before making any adjustments, it’s a good idea to get competent, professional advise so as not to compromise the safety or performance of the motorcycle for comfort.

Choppers – Choppers are reminiscent of Harley-Davidson’s Panhead, Captain America, made famous in the film, Easy Riders. They are a type of cruiser, are often show bikes, and usually have long frames, raked out forks, high ape hanger style handlebars, reclining seats, custom paint schemes and lots of chrome. They can be either built from scratch or modified to change their appearance. They usually don’t have any rear suspension and, therefore the handling is more difficult, maneuverability is compromised, and the ride is bumpier.

Cruisers – Typically the design of these bikes are reminiscent of the Harley-Davidson and Indian motorcycles of the 1930 to 1950 era. Large displacement, V-Twin engines are the norm, but smaller models do exist. Riders sit in a straight up position with arms often high and can be easily exhausted from the wind blasting them and an unnatural arm positioning. Cruiser ground clearances are limited, thus cornering ability is also impacted. Cruisers are designed for shorter rides.

Dirt Bikes – Dirt bikes are off road motorcycles, usually light weight and have small engines. Their characteristics include high ground clearance and long suspension travel. The large wheels and knobby tires make the bike easier to handle in the dirt, rocks and off road conditions. Most have a rugged construction, limited bodywork and paint, and are sans fairings. These bikes are not for show and are often dropped, scraped up and beat up from off road riding. Many dirt bikes are not street legal, and are only designed to be ridden off road.

Dual Sport/Adventure Touring – Many riders now enjoy the convenience of a dual sport motorcycle, which like dirt bikes are used for off-roading fun, but like touring bikes are street legal and are used for long distance motorcycle adventure tours. They have upright positions and comfortable seats for long rides, and their rugged, hard saddlebags can carry tents, additional fuel, and items needed for this type of travel.

Enduro Bikes – These motorcycles are designed for long distance, off road competitions. They are often outfitted with timers and roll chart reading devices to aid riders with navigation and timekeeping. All have headlights and tail lights so riders can be visible while riding at night.

Naked Bikes or Standard Bikes – Naked bikes or standard bikes are exactly what they sound like; they lack fairings, accessories and bodywork. They are reminiscent of the British bikes of the 50′s.

Scooters – Scooters are small in size with engines as small as 50 cc and not usually larger than 250 cc and have an enclosed motor that makes them cleaner and quieter than larger motorcycles. Another big difference in a scooter as opposed to the other types of motorcycles is the automatic transmission that makes them easier to learn and ride. They were popular in the oil crisis of the 70′s and have had a resurgence in the last few years. Under the category of Scooters there are also “Power Scooters”, which still feature an automatic transmissions, but have much larger engines – up to 650 cc, and generally include commuter-friendly accessories like increased storage.

Sport Bikes – Sport bikes are modeled after high performance racing bikes and require a leaned over, arms-forward posture. They have powerful motors and tight handling, capable of speeds of over 150 mph and more. They have high performance engines in a lightweight frame and emphasize speed, power, braking and cornering ability. Most have fairings that deflect wind at high speeds. Fuel tanks are smaller, and the high performance engine utilizes the fuel quickly, making them unable to travel long distances without frequent fuel stops. The uncomfortable rider posture also discourages long rides.

Supermoto Bikes – These bikes are modeled after the racing bikes that compete both on and off road. They combine the off road characteristics with roadworthy tires and deep suspension.

Trials Bikes – These motorcycles are specialty competition bikes used for trials that focus on balance and precision rather than speed. Most have small engines, 125 to 300 cc, and are of the two stroke variety. Most don’t have seats, and feature stiff suspension. Fuel tanks are small, and range is limited, but these bikes are not used for travel, so the small amount of fuel contributes to a lower weight and contributes to the precision requirements in competitions where riders are required to maneuver around obstacles without letting their feet touch the ground.

Touring Motorcycles – These motorcycles, often called dressers, are intended not just for day to day commutes, but excel at handling the needs of long distance, cross-country travelers. Equipped with comfortable seats, back rests, windshields or fairings, saddlebags, touring packs, floorboards, and often music systems, GPS and cruise control, these motorcycles are big and comfortable and have large fuel tanks (5 or 6 gallons) for long distance travel. They have large displacement engines and can weigh as much as 900 pounds, and handle a fully loaded weight of up to 1,400 pounds or more while carrying a rider.

Mental Preparation

Many new riders freak out about riding in the rain for no reason. I say this because my MSF course I took tested while in the middle of a spring shower. I was on a street legal dirt bike for this course and still passed it with flying colors, including the braking section which I was most concerned about. I was concerned throughout but the test proved to me that sensible bike riding can be done in wet conditions. The bike and I did fine and so my approach to rain has been to wait out the beginning of a storm and then go about my merry way. However, I do always make a point to:

• Slow down a little.
• Leave more room between me and the vehicle in front of me.
• Wait 20 minutes after it starts raining before riding. The first 20 minutes is the most dangerous, as the oil in the pavement comes to the surface and mixes with the rain to make and especially slippery concoction.

Bike Preparation

Many motorcyclists buy their bike based on looks and sometimes even fuel efficiency, but don’t consider the extra maintenance costs a bike presents. One of the biggest added costs of motorcycle ownership and the source of so many nervous riders when the roads get wet are tires, specifically worn tires. A broken in but newer tire with proper tread will help alleviate much of the traction issues associated with wet weather riding. Remember though: most motorcycle tires HAVE to be broken in for at least 100, if not many more miles, before they are safe to use in the rain. Tires that are worn down to the wear bars are far more likely to hydroplane in a puddle.

Making sure the lights, front and back, are operational is more important during wet weather than any time. On a clear day, other vehicles can easily see hand signs for turns and stops if the rear lights are dim or not working. However, add in rain to the mix and hand signals are easily lost. Little additions like brighter LED bulbs for running and brake lights, brake light modulators and brighter license plate frames go a long ways to increasing visibility in rainy and wet conditions.

Gear

Aside from things to help with visibility, some good clothing decisions can make even a lengthy ride in the rain something that can almost be enjoyed rather than something that is done for the least amount of time possible. Whether your ride is a touring bike or a sport bike, nothing is more miserable than dealing with a rainstorm without any type of rain gear. While jeans are popular for riding, they soak up rain and end up weighing three times as much and even a warm day can become uncomfortably cool when the bike is moving.

A basic necessity that I have always carried is some sort of rain suit. When wearing my solid leather jacket, I don’t worry about keeping my top half dry but still carry waterproof pants. These days, so many mesh jackets come with a built in or zip in rain liner that this would work very well and take up very little space. A pair of rain pants is inexpensive as well and take up very little room that the typical commuter can always find room in a pannier, trunk or tank bag. Even in my sport bike days, I’d be the only one with a tank bag on a blast on the country roads. I was also the only one that had water, a place for my cell phone and was prepared for a rain storm as well. It never slowed me down and on those days were a rain storm hit in the afternoon, the other riders were envious of me.

The final necessity, equipment-wise, is one that most everyone always has, and that is the helmet. For those who don’t wear helmets, I encourage you to change your mind. Nothing makes a ride home worse than rain drops hitting your forehead while going even 35 or 40 miles per hour. Even a “shorty” helmet will help, as will a pair of sunglasses or goggles. The more protection a helmet offers from road rash though, the more it will protect from rain. On full-face helmets though, be prepared for the visor to fog up though. Some anti-fog on the inside or a little spit will help prevent this, as will leaving it open just a little at the bottom. A few drops of rain may sneak in, but you will be able to still see. Remember: With any helmet, rain drops come right off if you turn your head and let the wind pull them off.

Personally, I am in that camp. I have seen too many new riders buy a Honda Rebel or similar bike who outgrow the bike within a couple months. They ultimately get hit with depreciation of the beginner bike, unless they bought used, and have a delay while trying to sell that bike before they move on to a bigger motorcycle. On top of that, I have known riders who end up quickly outgrowing the motorcycle they are on. They want to ride on the freeway don’t feel like the bike can go that fast safely, or they want to ride twisty roads but feel the bike’s suspension holding them back. The reality is that there are more and more modern bikes that are perfect choices for newer riders that will last a couple riding seasons and offer modern suspensions and reliability.

The bikes that I like for new riders all fit a fairly simple philosophy. They should be close to Motorcycle Safety Foundation’s recommendations for the bikes that are used on the course and should fit the rider as well. Low seat height is of special consideration. Even “normal” height riders will benefit from a lower seat height until they are super confident.

Each rider has personal preferences for the style of bike and the goals that they have for their riding as well. It is tough to touch on every nuance of riding but these five bikes should fit the bill for most new riders and actually could be enough bike for even seasoned riders simply looking for a lighter, more fuel-efficient, model as well.

Best Beginner Cruisers:

1) Harley-Davidson Sporster
With two available engine sizes, the 883 and 1200cc model, the Harley Davidson Sportster is a good mix of old school reliability, modern conveniences and good resale value. Buying a year old model will shield the rider from any depreciation and proper maintenance will ensure that when it is time to upgrade, much of the value will be retained. In the meantime, riders will be able to customize their bikes and enjoy a good balance of handling and power. The seat height can be had very low, with the 883 Superlow model starting with a 25.5 inch seat height. Even the standard 1200 has a low seat height of only 26.6 inches.

2) Hyosung GV-650 and ST-7
I may be biased here but after owning a Hyosung GV-650, they represent an excellent bargain. The basic bike is the same between the GV-650 and the ST-7, with the styling being the major difference. The GV looks like a hybrid of a HD V-Rod and Yamaha Warrior in three-quarter scale and the ST-7 has classic cruiser lines. Both offer a fuel-injected, liquid cooled 90-degree V-twin that is very usable down low but screams to redline, offering a good mix of power and controllability. This is in a lightweight package that is about 100 pounds lighter than the Harley Sportster line, with seat heights of 27.8 and 26.6 respectfully. Resale value is not great, but getting so much bike for under 7000 new makes up for that quite a bit, saving 3000 dollars up front over the cost of a new 1200cc Sportster. Reliability is good as well because while Hyosung is not well known in the US, they are respected elsewhere and are actually the Korean partner to Suzuki. The 650cc engine in this bike powers the well-respected and loved SV-650 line from Suzuki as well.

Best Beginner Sport Bikes

1) Suzuki SV-650 / Gladius / Hyosung GT650
Sharing the same engine, similar design elements that naked street bikes have and similar frames, these bikes are all good choices. They offer good power later on in the learning process for new riders, plenty of customization opportunities to better suit the rider later in a very easy to maintain package. New SV-650s are actually 2008 models and Gladius are 2009 models so they still have warranties but are available at excellent prices. Resale is iffy simply because they are older models being sold new. All range with MSRP’s of $5000-$6000, making them good starting bikes and used ones are constantly available as riders move up to 4 cylinder sport bikes or other types of motorcycles. With the Gladius and GT650 having steel frames, they will hold up a bit better if the bike is laid down but all have plenty of aftermarket and used parts to fix up a dropped ride in an inexpensive manner.
Kawasaki Ninja 650R/ Er-6n

2) Kawasaki Ninja 650R / ER-6N
Giving purchasers the look of a sport bike or naked street bike with good handling and still reasonable power, the Ninja 650R and Kawasaki Er-6n deliver on all counts. These bikes look great, are comfortable for the style and have 650cc parallel twin engines that give the rider plenty of torque, decent horsepower in a more controlled manner than a screaming 600cc engine that a “true” sport bike would have. With better useful power comes more fun and with a more comfortable riding position, the rides can go longer. With both of these choices, seat height does need to be considered. With heights of 31.1 and 29.7, they aren’t for short legged folks. However, adjustments can be made and these are static measurements without the rider sitting.

Best Beginner Dual Sport

1) BMW G650GS
There are plenty of small displacement street legal dirtbikes available with 200 or 250cc engines that will get the job done in terms of getting from point A to point B. However, even these small displacement dirtbikes have incredibly high seats and aren’t the best choice for long trips because the seats are uncomfortable and the engines and transmissions are simply not geared for long runs at even 55 or 60 miles per hour. The BMW G650GS is a capable trail machine with a 650 thumper that gives it enough grunt for freeway runs as well. Best of all, for a dual sport, the seat height is low with a unladen height that can be set as low as 29.5 inches. There are options however that can get that seat height much higher, allowing some serious flexibility in one bike. A new rider can start with the lowered suspension and learn then work up to 31.1 inches easily. If this isn’t high enough, a high seat is available as well, giving the rider another inch to work with. Compared to other dual sports and street legal dirtbikes, this gives the rider a lot more options. With a starting price under 9000 dollars new, it is a fairly good bargain, especially given the brand.

• Riding in strong winds can present a challenge. If there is a side wind, it’s best to grip the handlebars tightly, maintain your feet positioning on the pegs or floorboards and push your body into the wind. If there’s a front or rear wind, gripping tightly will help you be ready for any sudden wind gusts.
• If it begins to rain while you are riding; slow down and proceed carefully. The first 20 minutes of rain will wash the oil and grime off the road and make it safer. It is preferred to stop at an overpass or roadside area with cover for 20 minutes. If you are riding on wet roads, it is important to pump the front brake and lightly tap the rear brake when you need to slow down. Using both brakes is recommended, but use them together and smoothly. Sudden braking on newly wet roads can spell disaster.
• At stop lights or intersections, the center of the road is the most slippery, since oil leaks from vehicles tend to accumulate there. The best place to stop is to the left or right third of the lane, but be careful when placing your foot down, that you don’t step in slippery oil. Good, solid, non slip riding boots will make a difference here.
• When riding on gravel look in the direction you want to go and decrease your speed as needed. Before using the brakes, attempt to slow down by releasing the throttle. Use both brakes methodically, together and smoothly. Never hit the front brake hard.
• Treat metal grates like gravel. Look in the direction you want to go, and decrease your speed. If you are on a metal grate bridge, they can be very slippery, especially when wet, and the best response is to avoid using your brakes and go slowly. If you have to use your brakes, again use both front and rear together.
• When there is an object in the road, first attempt to avoid it by smoothly steering around it. If that is not possible, try to hit the object squarely and stand up and pull back on the handlebars to decrease the load on the front of the motorcycle.
• When crossing railroad tracks slow down and try to cross at a slight angle.
• Occasionally, you will be confronted with a stretch of highway that has been made rough in preparation for asphalting. This surface is similar to riding in gravel, as the wheel will attempt to move from side to side. Your best option is to slow down, grip the handlebars tightly and steer straight ahead. Use brakes cautiously and use both brakes smoothly. Avoid locking up the front brake by pressing it suddenly.
• Never use the front brake in a curve, especially on gravel. You are likely to lock up the front wheel, and go down.

Remembering these tips and frequently practicing rides in various conditions will help you stay on top of your game, become familiar with how your motorcycle reacts to the current condition, and increase your safety threshold.

Because of the limited space, you should narrow down the items you will take on a long trip. The “must have” items such as minimal clothing, identification and money, cell phone, first aid kit and tool kit should be considered first. Next, determine the “would like to have” items such as your laptop, iPod, extra clothing and other extraneous items. It’s a good idea to practice packing the motorcycle. If loaded incorrectly, your ability to maneuver the motorcycle can be compromised. Put heavier items on the bottom of the saddlebags and evenly distribute the weight on each side. Put the lighter items and items you will use frequently near the top. Use windshield bags or a tank bag for small items that you want to have readily accessible. A sissy bar and two up seat make it easy to add a T-bag or other brand touring bag, and a tour pack can be added to most types of motorcycles. Hard tour packs and hard saddlebags are nice because they are almost virtually waterproof. On the other hand, T-bags and other soft sided touring bags might be weather resistant, but almost none are completely waterproof. Most come with rain flies that can be used to make them more water resistant, but it also makes it difficult to access the bags when covered with a rain fly. Bungee cords and helmet nets can be used to strap on additional items, but should only be used as a last resort since they can come loose, and cause a catastrophe if they hit you in the face or get caught up in your motor, chain, gears, wheels or other moving parts. Items that fly off the motorcycle can be dangerous to other motorists as well. You can also consider wearing a back pack for small items, but the added weight strapped to your back can cause you to tire more readily, so it is best used for shorter distance rides.

If attention is paid to loading the motorcycle properly, and GWR is not exceeded, you can safely carry everything you need for a long, enjoyable motorcycle trip, as well as use your motorcycle for short trips to work or to the shopping center for groceries, supplies and other necessities.